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Monday, December 28, 2009

Hiking in the Jungle up Pico-Bonito


An early start to the Lodge at Pico Bonito looks promising as we drive up a narrow jungle path to the Lodge. This is a very substantial lodge, 100% ecological, built to a high standard (dare I say 5 star).

Our guide Santo speaks fluent English and is very experienced. The trail is beautiful every step of the way as we work our way up the mountain between the Coloradito and the Corinto rivers.

Climbing the four towers produces an overview of the tree tops, but no view of the ocean. Blue morning glories have worked their way 15 meters to the tree tops. Santo pointed out countless birds, ants, tree species and phenomena with a story at every corner.

The "tourist skin" tree has a reddish paper thin bark that peels off every three or four days. I shoot a little video of a leaf cutter ant carrying a leaf (actually a very common sight). In fact, thanks to the leaf cutter ant, many parts of the trail have a 20 cm path cleared of any leaves.

Termite tunnels draw arteries and mounds like nets around some trees. Cocoa trees are easy to find. Our guide cracks a seed pod open and we taste or rather suck the outer white meat of the cocoa beans, it reminds me vaguely of vanilla, the actual cocoa seed inside is soft and purple but a bit tart, as you might expect untreated chocolate might taste.

Eventually, we start back down a trail to the pools at the bottom of the waterfalls. They feel ice cold. So I just stick my legs in for 20 minutes and that cooled me right down. As we work our way back the rain hits hard and we are soaked. Before we reach the lodge we are virtually dry again.

The smell of oranges fills the air for hundreds of meters as we make our way to the snake exhibit. It's a fine snake house, with the usual set of boxes on tabletops around a large room containing various sizes of venomous and innocuous snakes and a tarantula. The whole exhibit is less impressive to me than it should be due to my complete ignorance of the subject and the fact that it is best viewed at night when the snakes are more active.

More wandering through the orange grove left to go back to nature as we reach the butterfly house. A simple well built structure filled with a complete ecosystem for butterflies. No impressive giants here, just a nice collection of local species and their favourite plants.

On the way back to the Lodge we spot a toucan, a brown jay, a woodpecker (red head), and an unknown yellow breasted yellow crowned bird. Also warblers, beautiful hummingbirds, one with an orange beak, a black body and a yellow tail. Of the four types of vultures in Hondura; Black Vultures (with white wing patches) float above. Grackles abound (brown females and black males with scary yellow beady eyes).

The lunchroom at the lodge is homey, large and airy, the high ceiling has dozens of fans hanging from it (Air Conditioning is so Eco-unfriendly). Wicker chairs are strewn around the very wide wraparound deck (4-5 m ?). There is something special about a restaurant that leaves lots of space between the tables. Here, you could dance between them without fear of being noticed.

Only the stains on the friendly waiter's bulging shirt knocked the top star off this place.
As we finished enjoying the detailed garden view we turned to find Hector and his bus waiting for us, ahead of schedule.