Percé: Visiting 120,000 gannets (Fou de Bassan)

This is extreme bird watching. After searching for occasional glimpses of a woodpecker; here we are six feet from 40,000 nesting gannet pairs watching over their egg, patching it with algae, squabbling with the neighbours. They are quite talkative and affectionate looking; I wonder if I could study their language as it seems quite articulate. 

We only had about 45 minutes with the gannets because we arrived just before one PM since we had not planned the outing.

The guide books should be rewritten. Here is what you do. Upon driving into Percé (preferably before noon) drive directly to the center of town and use the free parking (clients only) at Croisière Ile Bonaventure opposite the docks. Pay $25 cash each for your tour of the islands directly from he parking attendant; make sure you ask for the LARGE BOAT, the smaller one was quite wild as we went around Bonaventure island. Walk to the docks and board. You will then go on a ride on both sides of Percé Rock and then offshore around the island. All tours are identical but for the boat size.

Just before returning from the island, the boat docks on the island where you can choose to catch the next one and go for a walk across to where the Gannets nest (a 5.5 km, 2 hour trip over a 130 meter hill). Access to the island is $3.50. 

The Atlantic was not as salty as I expected but it was much colder!

Gaspé: the Gaspé Museum

The museum is full of interesting historical facts about the Gaspe peninsula; but it is quite small and so the visit was short. So, in no time we were out of town and on our way to Percé.

Pointe à la Renommée: Marconi 1904 Maritime Radio Station.

I had almost forgotten this one; as we drove by the 1 km sign, we jumped off highway 132 and down a 4 km gravel trail down to the coast. Poor little car, it is so dusty now. The station was a landmark for me since radio has always been part of my life. Great feelings! 

Good morning from Grande-Vallée, QC

 


We are so impressed with the neat villages and well kept houses. There is no litter.

We slept at the Motel Richard, right by the grasses on the beach. This underrated one star cabin that deserves more for being immaculate and complete down to the refrigerator and hair dryer. Why go anywhere else, it's great. I am totally rested.The preparations for massive fires on the beach are made, huge trees are part of the bond-fire plans!



The quote on the school "It takes a whole community to educate a child." just sums up the mindset of a small town.

Just another beautiful morning in the Gaspé peninsula. This has been a lovely trip, with perfect weather and lovely sights. The run down the beach into the sunrise was invigorating. This is a lovely village with all the facilities.

Cap Chat: Eole

All my life I have been following the development of wind power. One of the first was EOLE the largest vertical shaft windmill in the world. Built in 1988, the experiment only ran for a few years before running into financial problems.

To my surprise, from the phoenix of this 110 meter giant, like so many mushrooms, 137 horizontal shaft windmills cover the hills in Cap Chat and Matane. Quebec is a player, the owners get 8 cents per kwh and hydro resells it at 12. Our guide provided a detailed and cogent presentation of the entire subject. Thank you Pierre-Olivier. 

Visit Métis: Les jardins de Métis

There is much more to this garden than plants; certainly creating an outstanding garden at 49 degrees of latitude is an achievement worth viewing.

But the real find is Elsie Refords' summer cottage; she had access to unlimited funding and lived well. The presentation of her lifestyle is so well executed that I felt as though I was living there for a few hours. As we enjoyed a beautiful and delicious soup and salad lunch from the garden with a cup of wine to 20's jazz in a 20 foot high eucalyptus paneled room brilliantly lit through finely airbrushed window overlooking the garden, time stopped and I hated to leave. As we stepped out on to the 3 meter wide veranda and walked to the belvedere, I was as though slowly waking from a dream.

The living quarters made me feel as though I was a guest in her home; there were so many details that made their luxurious routine come to life: the home movies from 1911, the darkroom with photographic paper that expired in 1935, the 45 pound salmon record, the fishing logbook with 20 pounders on every few lines, the quotations from their staff describing their daily tasks.

I hated to leave and lingered in the shops just looking at the wonderful architecture around me.











These two shots are my salad and the centerpiece.




























Some of the furniture.

Trip to Gaspé with Ginette: Ste-Flavie

What a wonderful little town.

Sainte-Flavie: playing with the pilgrims

This morning we climbed a lookout near Cacouna for a few hours of hiking and wonderful panoramas of the Saint Laurence river and Ile Verte. The roses filled the air with perfume. We are hoping to see new birds, but only a woodpecker and the usual suspects were available, we were too late in the day.

There was a stop at the requisite Antiques barn; but despite being a very large collection, I found it only of passing interest.

Earlier we were at Rimouski; we went up a 33m lighthouse and visited a submarine (93m) up close and personal; I can't believe 70 men spent up to 3 months in there.

At Sainte-Flavie, Marcel Gagnon poured these concrete pilgrims walking from the sea. The effect as the tide rises over them is quite stunning.

Cacouna 60 years after the tourist boom

It seems this town was very popular with the big names (Molsons, etc.) from 1850 to 1950. The 500 room hotel is no more. We stayed at the Gîte La Veilleuse where a very helpful couple smoothed and speeded our visit there. The Ornithological walk was the hilight of our visit there.

Trip to Gaspé: Neuville, QC

Hanging on to the mast, in the middle of the Saint-Laurence river at Neuville, QC thanks Hermann

Trip to Gaspé with Ginette: Victo

First a quick stop at mom's; there is always a surprise, here it's a giant strawberry, a new fireplace and an asphalt patching product. We had a lovely visit, not much work, just tidy up the fireplace and meet the neighbours. Nice. Thanks mom.