All three of us (Steve & Ginette and our daughter Catherine (14)) went south for Christmas season this year, our second time. We stayed at the Gran Caribe Ancón hotel. I booked a few dives. Caught up with our friends from last year. My spanish has improved, but remains virtually useless.
The hilight of this trip was the trip on a train to Manaca-Iznaga. One of the few operating narrow gauge steam engines.(circa 1919). This 20 km triptook us through the most productive sugar cane fields in the world. The moment you board, one steps back to Victorian England. The passenger car is very comfortable despite the absence of glass in the windows (yes, you will be slightly sooty). The wrought iron bench supports are a treat for the eyes.
As the engine paused for effect over the high tressle bridge, I looked down anxiously at the swamp far below (about 100 feet). Almost a hundred years! I nervously inspected the rusty boldts. Finally, after what seemed an eternity, the engine roared back to life and we were restored to the safety of the cane fields.
I pictured myself as Sherlock Holmes rushing out to the London countryside to solve another enigma. The train stops at Manaca-Iznaga. The headmaster's farmhouse and slave watchtower are the pearls of this tiny rural community. The begging is intense, we seek refuge in the restaurant compound. For a dollar, I got a glass of freshly squeezed sugar cane juice that should be shared by at least five people!
The 40 minute visit ends when our train returns from turning arround. Ginette starts handing out bars of soap, caps, Tshirts but has to leap onto the train lest she be crushed by the surge of beggars. (Warning: only give to those who wait respectfully in the sidelines or you will suffer the same).
The downhill trip is only punctuated by a possibly staged stall and "fire" on the too tall tresle bridge.
A lovely outing we recommend to any history or train buff. Complete with soot.
